The Sculptor of “Pointe Art”
While most women's shoes have high and thin heels, Sergio Rossi's vamp curves perfectly fit the curvature of a woman's foot, making for a beautiful top. This is because most of the lasts have a high curve, which perfectly fits the shape of the foot, ensuring a nice curve without straining the wearer too much.
Italian Lorenzo, who has worked in the shoe industry for 32 years, currently works as Sergio rossi's last maker, taking patterns from drawings and turning them into a last suitable for mass production. Shoe last is the matrix of the shoe, but also the shoe molding mold. The circumference of the toe, the width of the body and the height of the heel are all decided by the last.
Last is the soul of the shoe
"Decades ago, Sergio Rossi taught me a valuable lesson -- the last is the key to shaping the shape of the shoe and making the rest fit perfectly. It determines whether a woman can wear high heels with comfort and confidence at the same time." "Lorenzo said.
Because design drawings are often the expression of inspiration and style, but for a shoe to be truly beautiful and wearable, the last, between aesthetic conception and technical reality, needs to go through hundreds of times of running-in, fine-tuning and validation.
Usually, Lorenzo works from a workbench filled with files and tools. Many of the operations are completely manual, so his workshop looks like a carpenter's workshop, with archives of various shoes and lots of hand tools. The model shoes of the past are a reference and a source of creativity, providing many ideas and ideas for new works.
Every pair of shoes is a work of art
Lorenzo knows how important it is for all the pieces to come together to make a great shoe. Like all organs in the human body, they each serve their purpose and contribute to a person's overall beauty and health. The same goes for all the elements of the shoe, which need to be harmonized like an orchestra.
At Sergio Rossi, it typically takes 110 steps to make a classic heel, or more for more elaborate shoes. It involves hundreds of hours of model design and production, thousands of hours of technical accumulation, and tens of thousands of replications, discussions and polishing.
Sergio Rossi's vision has always been to find the perfect balance between comfort and beautiful design. A long history and tradition, years of information, data and accumulation have created an archive of shoes, Lorenzo said. "Every time we get inspired and learn from past projects. By documenting all the small details of our successes and failures and learning from them, we can stay updated and progressive in the face of complex and changing requirements."
Craftsmanship is not immutable and needs constant research and innovation to keep improving. Lorenzo often speaks to the younger generation, exchanging ideas while passing on and continuing Sergio Rossi's history.
As Sergio Rossi's last maker, Lorenzo is an Italian artisan with what designer Francesco Russo calls the "Golden Hand" and a sculptor of "pointe art." For him, each pair of shoes is not just a piece of work, but a work of art.